Guiding WOC Through The Process Of Returning Natural

Caring for short, stylised hair

Photo by Christine Hahn

Short, healthy hair is undoubtedly beautiful. No one does short hair quite like black women: bold colors, intricate designs, waves, very low cuts that highlight our features. Black women are the pioneers of short, innovative styles, and we’re 100% here for it. Today we’ll be talking all about how to care for your hair when you’re doing trend-setting styles that often include styling with heat or coloring your hair. Hair care should minimise damage, and complement the overall look and we’ve got you covered.

Before we jump in we’d like to shout out our #DEARBLACKGIRL kit. If you purchase it along with our Onion & Garlic Thickening Ayurvedic Herb Hair Oil, we’ll donate 15% of the profits towards building other black businesses across the country that have been hit hard during this time. For us, putting the black dollar back into our community is essential, and we’re proud to be making the commitment to do so. 

Our #DEARBLACKGIRL kit is a superstar collection, and it works great for all porosities. It features our Chebe Powder Growth Hair Mask, Ultra Nourishing Guacamole Hair Mask and Golden Sea Buckthorne Shine & Moisture Hair Butter, and works to repair damaged hair, treat split ends, promote volume and thickness, as well as seal in moisture – a key part of any hair care regimen. 

Rosantica via Moda Operandi

Color treated hair

We are kicking off with one of the most common styles of short hair! From bleach blonde to dark burgundy, many black women with short hair often tend to colour their hair as a means of self-expression, getting the hair to stand out, and to try something new! As with short hair, people feel less attached to their hair as they haven’t been growing it for decades at that point. 

Although colouring your hair can be fun – it is ultimately damaging to your hair. This is because chemical treatments don’t only alter the color or texture of your hair, they also alter its porosity level. These treatments make your hair highly porous – even if your hair might not naturally be. This is because the chemicals penetrate the hair cuticle in order to alter the hair, leaving gaps and holes in the cuticle. This means the hair quickly absorbs moisture but lets it out just as quickly – which makes the hair dry, frizzy and prone to tangling. Therefore it’s best to approach your regimen with that recommended for a high porosity gal. 

However, you can minimize the negative effects it has by following a few simple rules.

  1. Do protein treatments twice a month to strengthen the hair. Check out our Chebe hair mask, which comes as part of our #DEARBLACKGIRL kit. It’s our most balanced mask, as it’s mainly moisturizing with a tiny shot of protein. It’s very gentle in comparison to our Henna or Fenugreek masks which are stronger protein treatments. 
  2. Use the LOC method on wash day: liquid, oil, cream. For your cream, go with our Buckthorne Butter, which also comes as part of our #DEARBLACKGIRL kit. 
  3. Stick to one service at a time. If you want to chemically relax, straighten, or perm your hair, it’s best to do it at least two weeks before your hair color appointment. This gives your hair time to recover between treatments.
  4. For color touchup, wait up to 10 weeks or longer if you can. We know that line of demarcation between your growth and treatment can be annoying! It’s also the weakest part of the hair so you want to be gentle when you’re styling it as it’s prone to breakage. 

Using heat to style 

Because short hair is versatile, many women with short hair choose to style them intricately, such as using small straighteners and wands to achieve and maintain a specific style. Although we recommend staying away from heat for your hair to be its healthiest, we’re going to share a few tips for maintaining your pattern even when you use heat. 

However, we do need to point out that damage is impossible to avoid, although you can mitigate it. This is because when you apply heat to your hair, especially to highly-textured hair, the heat permeates the strands and can in turn cause irreversible damage to the texture. Here are a few rules to follow to minimise the effects:

  1. It’s not necessary or recommended to use high temperatures when straightening your hair. Stick to medium temps for the best results.
  2. Deep condition every time you wash. An unfortunate caveat of using hot tools is that no matter how much you protect it, you’re still gonna experience dryness on some level. Restore lost moisture and nutrients by deep conditioning with every wash. Some great options are our Chebe hair mask, which is a fantastic strengthening mask. You’ll want to opt for this no more than twice a month if you have high porosity hair, and every 4-6 weeks if you have low posterity hair. Another option is our Guacamole hair mask which is deeply moisturizing and nourishing. Both these masks com as part of our #DEARBLACKGIRL kit.
  3. Use heat protection! Always! People will often say to use oils as natural heat protectants, but this is something you actually want to avoid since most oils have a smoking point once the temperature is too high, defeating the purpose. This is one of the few times you should apply a synthetic heat protectant to the hair, specifically one that contains silicone. This will create a protective barrier on the outside of your strands that will prevent it from experiencing the full brunt of the heat.
  4. Don’t use heat on soaking wet hair. This is a surefire way to fry your curl pattern and you should always wait until you’re hair is completely dry before you apply heat to it. Using hot tools on soaking wet hair is not only kinda dangerous, it’s also deeply damaging because the hair cuticle is still wide open. You’ll notice an almost instant change in your curl pattern and the state of your ends during your next wash day.

Via Into the Gloss

How to do the LOC method: a great moisturizing technique for colour treated and highly porous hair. 

LOC and LCO are two methods of moisturizing the hair that help keep moisture locked into place. They’re also an easy guide to remembering the steps of applying your hair products. The two methods are meant to maximize moisture retention after washing the hair, which can be very drying for some of us.

LOC method, which we’ll be focussing on today, stands for Liquid-Oil-Cream. This order works best for high porosity types because the oil in the second step is able to penetrate the hair deeply, while the cream seals everything into place.

1) Spritz your hair with water, rosewater or lever juice. This will serve as your liquid. 

2) Go in with an oil. Some great oils for you are castor oil, coconut oil, olive oil or hemp seed oil. This will help nourish your hair, and lock in the moisture from the liquid. It will also weigh your hair down, ultimately leading to less frizz. 

3) Lock it all in with a cream. Opt for our Golden Sea Buckthorne Shine & Moisture Hair Butter. The shea butter in this jar serves as an amazing base for all the oils mixed to create a thirst quencher for dry hair. The watermelon seed oil plays the role of stimulating the circulation of your scalp, the hemp oil enhances hair growth, the rose essential oil contains B3 which strengthens hair, and the sea buckthorn oil provides vitamin A, B, C, and E. 

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